Travel with Twinny .. Seville

Disappointment writ large on our faces!

12,500 Tickets to the Bullfight at the


all SOLD out !!!

How could one visit SPAIN and NOT witness a MATCH between MAN and the mighty BULL ??!

No no Amruta, it’s not like what it appears!

BULLFIGHTING in Spain is NOT considered a BLOOD SPORT , rather an ART FORM and very much part of Spanish culture.

Fortunately ,just like outside Bombay Talkies one could earlier procure cinema tickets at blackmarket rates, friendly Spanish touts cheerfuly SOLD us tickets at TWICE the original price,

no doubt for the very BEST seats,

the ones closest to the ring and in the shade! Sol tickets or tickets in the Sun are much cheaper!

You sure were DESPERATE Twinny !

Agreed Amruta!

But then ,when ever would I see a LIVE bullfight ??

Bullfights have been banned in Barcelona since 2010 and animal activist laws may soon do the same in Madrid!

You can see when you visit south of France , Peru ,Cuba …….Twinny !

At least THERE they will NOT fight till the bull drops down DEAD . They will stop short at harassing . No KILLING of the bull!

Shhhhhu Amruta !

It’s not like I am condoning this spectacle . I am just a curious spectator- LET me see!

YELLOW OCHRE is the colour of Seville ,the welcoming ,romantic CAPITAL of ANDALUSIA , home to the Muslim ALCAZAR castle , the gorgeous Gothic CATHEDRAL, also where legendary explorer Christopher Columbus was buried….

YELLOW OCHRE is the colour of the centre of the bullfighting arena!

GRAND is the stage!

Dressed fashionably as though going to the Derby and armed with cushions to sit on the stony steps of this huge arena established since 1700, the heady smell of cigars filling the air , PASSIONATE Spaniards wait for the DRAMA to unfold.

And it does!

The orchestra begins to play, the intrepid matador enters with a prayer on his lips, places his hat on the ground at the centre of the ring

And Ole’

Here charges in the angry 😡 bull!

First , PICADORS try to exhaust the bull with their RED capes ! I learn later the capes need NOT be red, bulls are colourblind!

Just the MOVEMENT of the cloaks is enough to incense them !

Hither thither the maddened animal runs, sinewy despite his bulk !

In come the blindfolded horses , with a HORSEMAN who expertly spears the back of the charging bull …..

…….followed by the picadors

thrusting 2 darts at a time on either side of the bulls spine!

2 this side , 2 that side , 2 back on same side as first!

A total of 6!

The poor ,poor animal already is at a disadvantage, exhausted and bleeding, yet

valiantly fighting on .

The crowd raises white handkerchiefs in appreciation of the brave bulls efforts!

Now struts in the matador .

Ole’! Ole’! Shout the crowd!

Gracefully pirouetting and swirling his cape just inches away from the bulls horns ( the hapless creatures ONLY defence and attack weapon) the matador in a series of well calculated moves majestically spears the heart .

Down falls the doomed animal


be carried away by a train of horses in a trice!

Ole’ Ole’!!

How GRUESOME is this art Twinny !!

Before you become so judgemental Amruta,

consider THIS …….The bull sent in to fight has lounged on a lush bull ranch ,been fed and cared for , for 5 years.

The one that is killed for its meat is just a baby , a bull calf , only 18 months old!

Now WHICH is better?

To die a death in glory,

Or prematurely in the slaughter house?

OMG Twinny!

I can’t say which is worse !

If IBERIAN STEAK were not so delicious , I would have turned vegetarian long ,long ago!


Stop whimpering Amruta !

Am off to Barcelona !

Have to ” catch a bull…

……by its horns ”

…… and procure RINGSIDE tickets for the football match at CAMP NOU , BARCELONA !


NOT at ‘ ANY COST !’

….even if MESSI is playing! 😌

OLE’ !

ZARAH DIARIES … the most INTERESTING people I don’t even need to seek .. they just walk right into Zarah Clinic…

Assamaalikum Doctor Sahiba!

Ali Khans old familiar voice resounded as he sauntered into the clinic for his ANNUAL fix!



khairiyat? I ask … trying to impress with the smattering of Urdu I know..

I distinctly remember our first meeting. Burly in a pathani suit and peshavaris, Ali strode into the clinic and I have never been more surprised!

An unknown ‘middle aged’ Pakistani in Zarah Clinic, what twist of tale could have brought him here?

When asked what was his age .. he counter questioned .. aap aandaaza lagaa saktay hain?

He had salt and pepper hair falling on a thick scarred face , deep set eyes with crow’s feet running helter skelter down to his cheeks..Though he looked 54….

I answered a conservative 45 !

But balked when he said 27!

Whoops !!

Quickly trying to cover this faux pas, I immediately distracted him by asking about his life, and the nature of his work.

It turned out Ali had qualified as a civil architect , was out all day on construction sites in the hot Quetta sun , screwing up his eyes looking up at unfinished constructions!

An occupational hazard then ,to develop crow’s feet along with solar aging of his otherwise youthful skin!

”I want to get married ”

He blurted out in all earnestness ,”but girls reject me because they think I am too old!”

”Doctor Sahiba..

Kuch Upaay dilla sakthi hain??!”

Of course I suggested Botox .. am well aware that THIS IS the miracle method which no cream or medicine can achieve to actually eradicate or soften lines. Despite all the myths surrounding it , it is supersafe and USFDA approved and as of today , the most popular cosmetic procedure in the USA.

Took Ali no time to be convinced and soon he was having his first cosmetic treatment!

The first time around ,I applied anaesthetic cream for an hour before giving micro mini injections into relevant muscles .

That was then!

Now ,he is a champ!

Needs no numbing cream …just a little ice and a lot of chitterchatter!

Ammi jaan Kaisi hain??Lahore Ka mahaul Kaisa hai?!

It’s all over in a matter of minutes!

Within 10 days to a fortnight…

the muscles around the eyes and the deep frown lines begin to relax ..

And hey presto a younger version of oneself emerges!

Like Magic!

Ali is happy EACH and EVERY time.

The ravages of premature aging are erased so easily !

Who would guess??

That’s what makes him return year after year ,

each time enthusiastically sharing pictures of his growing family , warmly inviting mine to his home .

YES, he DID get married within a year of his very first treatment !

The second time he came he presented me a box wrapped in yellow cellophane . Doctor sahiba, I brought you something, the best pistachios from Lahore.”

Seeing my hesitation he quickly added “No you must take it, it’s for the kids.” Not wanting to appear impolite I accepted the box. Little did I know then ,that this was one of many boxes of dry fruit that Ali would hand me over the years, wrapped in cellophane yes, but wrapped more in respect and affection as the years went by . 10 years now!

Big Ali with a bigger Heart is how I will always remember him.

The political climate in Pakistan is undoubtedly unsafe but the hearts of our brethren across the border are large and hugely respectful of us.

I remember my dear friend Lekha Merchant trying to buy salwar kameezes for her schoolteacher colleagues in a Karachi equivalent of Crawford market being told .. aap Bombay se hain ..aap liijiye jo aap chaahein..

hum aapse paise nahin lenghein!

Now that’s something WE never do!

Botox done, now it’s paytime folks!

Our ‘mehmaan nawaazi ‘pales’ in comparison.

Ali and I end up comparing the neighbor countries and often conclude that our ordinary everyday lives are pretty much the same!

He laughs “our WOMEN and our TRUCKS are probably more colorful than yours!”

It’s true, our silly ‘horn ok please’ truck slogans are NO match for the Pakistani counterparts, which are arty ,veritable mini carnivals on wheels!

What designs ! What colours!

Women? Nah! Ofcourse we can be colorful I fume as I deftly drape my most lively and flamboyant saree of the day ……a blue, black and white busily printed soft-to-touch ‘malmal ‘ with multicolored, happy tassels cheerfully strung along the border…



Will be back soon with another interesting patient of mine!

Zarah Diaries…..The most INTERESTING PEOPLE I don’t need to even seek, they just walk right into Zarah Clinic!

At precisely 12 noon I heard this rather timid “hello Dr. Radha” on my door.

Rapt in a reverie after my last patient as to what could I cook today for impromptu dinner guests tonight I looked up to see Parul , all of 26 confident years old.

As we got talking she mentioned she heard of Zarah clinic through friends and that she was looking for LASER HAIR REMOVAL . “Upper lip?” I questioned …it being the most common amongst young girls .

‘No ‘ she said, “actually under arms”,

And ‘full bikini’

and ‘lower legs’

Oh …She’s getting married…I thought ….anyways we continued to set appointments and discuss do’s and don’ts around the treatment.

I set up my baby ZARAH MEDICAL and COSMETIC SKIN CLINIC 11 years ago, when cosmetic enhancements were somewhat an exclusive territory. Now, that equation has changed and LOOKING GOOD ,therefore FEELING GOOD…is de rigueur.

Right from selecting the unaffordable state-of-the-art EQUIPMENT , to sketching the Zarah LOGO, to framing the MISSION STATEMENT in all sincerity or selecting professional STAFF and the soft MUSIC and varieties of GREEN TEA as patients undergo various treatments were thought processes that belonged to me.

I wanted Zarah to be a comfortable place people walk into and walk out of …with poise and confidence!

After 2 long sessions with Parul I realized to my total amazement, shock and awe that the girl was NOT getting married, in fact she NEVER would !

She was undergoing complete laser hair removal because she had chosen to become a JAIN MONK!

Oh Lordie No!!

Instantly I tried talking her out of this idea but No ..

She was set ! THIS was her chosen life path!

Life of a pious mendicant???

Heavens no!!!!

I looked at her, mesmerized as she narrated how that once she had attained DIKSHA she would NOT be able to shower, personal hygiene would have to be compromised, that she would live life as a wanderer eschewing not only the material world but also all emotions.. the VOW of Nonpossesssion or APARIGRAHA!


From being the FASHIONISTA who partied every weekend wearing her ‘Pradas ‘to the glitziest of events,she was to be catapulted into a life where her focus was PRAYER.

She would live life as the perfect Ascetic, practise nonviolence and detachment with only her white simple robes , a bowl and broom , maybe a few religious texts… as her only worldly possessions .

All this she CHOSE ….Of her own FREE WILL!


I mused … I adjusted my light blue linen sari in a small mirror with a black wrought iron frame at the far corner of my room at the clinic. Something you need to know about me – I love life and I love sarees. Every day of my life is only that much wee bit happier because I can wear a beautiful sari with some exciting jewellery to the clinic!

Today’s sari of the day is a a very light powder blue linen gifted to me by my best friend Sangeeta who shops online especially when she is unwell!

The jewellery I picked up from a cute little shop in Kochi .My blouses never ever, ever belong to the sari itself and this one with long sleeves I picked up at Chandralok.

As I sign off I wonder about Parul ..

Where would she be ?

..walking barefoot , learning , assimilating

Not a roof over her head …a free soul!

Wherever you are .. Parul .. hope you are just fine!

Here’s me expressing ..for lack of a better word…

Solidarity….. even if just for a day !

Guess each one’s journey of life is different.

Have a great day folks!

More in my next post of another interesting patient of mine!


Name of patient changed to protect identity .

Parul looked beautiful, dressed in bridal finery on the day of her INITIATION procession.

Once she became a SADHAVI .. she RENOUNCED not only all her worldly possessions , giving them away in charity but EVEN HER NAME !

Last I heard of her .. she was perfectly happy and in equanimity !👍

Art with Amruta.. Boshu and Sumie 

Hi all !

It’s me Amruta…standing ramrod straight ..

Proudly listening to the strains of Tagores 

NATIONAL  ANTHEM….yes  all  52 seconds of it…

And prouder than ever TODAY of the INDIAN CONSTITUTION …

Why TODAY Amruta??

Well Twinny…

Today I discovered that apart from the fact that the Indian Constitution is the LONGEST in the whole world ( Monaco has the shortest while the UK , Israel and NewZealand don’t have any  !)…..
 it is also a WORK of ART!

The CALLIGRAPHY is hand painted .. by Prem Raizada 

And the ARTWORK …creative and decorative ….dug out from Indian History is 

done by India’s most gentle and modest artist .. 


Pronounced…NONDO LAL BOSHU… !

Soooooo  sweet!

(1882- 1966)

Here he is .. 

He also designed the emblem of the Bharat Ratna and Padma Shri Awards…

( Jawahar lal Nehru asked him to!)

And himself was a recipient of the Padma Vibhushan ..

Wow! Wow! Wow!

Nandalal may have failed all his college exams but by all the students of Shantiniketan of which he was the Principal …and in the world of Modern Indian Art he stands out like a SHY SHINING STAR…..

Look at his Paintings..

You will understand why !

Mesmerising.. in colours and forms.. he was influenced by the MURAL art of Ajanta Ellora ( a Unesco world heritage site dating back to the 2 nd century BC!)

By the Stupa of Gaya

By the temples of Mahabalipuram ..

And ALL that was INDIAN!

 An  AMALGAMATION of watercolours and techniques magical !

His subjects were often Religious or Mythological…

Or of women ….

Or indigenous .. 

exploring themes around him.. the bangle seller, the village potter ,the Esraj player, the humble cow..

Here are some postcards and the Haripura posters made at the behest of his friend Gandhiji for the Indian National Congress …in 1938

He could paint and he could draw masterfully!

What’s the difference Amruta..??

Painter and Sketcher….

Everyone CANNOT do BOTH Twinny!

He used indigenous materials …water colours and opaque pigments like tempera..

Eschewing Oil which was used in the west..

He especially loved the fluidity of the 

Japanese ‘ WASH ‘


And the 2000 year old INKWASH painting tradition rooted in 

Zen Buddhism….called


 SUMI … such  a pretty name Amruta …

What does it mean??

SUMI -e means ink wash painting ! Black ink is used with consummate skill .. on 

Rice paper or silk scrolls ..

One paints with great concentration, clarity and simplicity

Look at these pictures Twinny .. SUMI-E is not as easy as it seems …

Oh Twinny .. I simply love this art …..Especially the 

Empty spaces! 

What do you love in EMPTY spaces

 Amruta ???

Oh Twinny ..Empty spaces say so much ..!

They have power within!

Take this Japanese SUMIE painting for example ..

You can feel the MOVEMENT of the fish in water despite there being no water… just empty space…

Or my dear  friend Dr Geetanjalis contemporary rendition of Radha Krishna…

Swinging in harmony in an ethereal space .. unto eternity
Or …
Nanda Lal Boses black and white linocut of Gandhiji !

He made this in 1930 …and this is the enduring image in our minds of the Dandi March ..the nonviolent movement against the salt tax imposed by the British…

The linocut shows Gandhi ji striding forward and onward ..staff in hand..
We see no path , no road ..but we FEEL the sense of purpose!

Indeed it is 
the EMPTY SPACES  which speak Twinny!

I get it Amruta !

I am going to RESERVE some EMPTY space for myself ..


Do just as I please…

Oh Twinny …….you will set up house anywhere!

Even in a temporarily vacant parking lot!

Enjoy your ☕️!

Art with Amruta….Art of the Gods

Hiiiiii all!!It’s Me ….Amrutaaaaaa!

 You a trifle EXUBERANT  today Amruta…


Goodness gracious Amruta… what are you doing???!

Haha Twinny ! That’s NOT  me!
It is Navratri…..Raas Garbar time!  

And yes am  Ready to do a Tandav in front of all the beautiful images of  deities all around !

Ever wondered where these beautiful pictures came from Twinny ??!
NO NEVER Amruta!

Guess SOMEONE SOMETIME must have drawn them!

Yes yes you are right Twinny!
Believe it or not was 



(1848 – 1906)

Given a KAISER -e-HIND citation.. here he is…

Even a CRATER on the 🌙 moon is named after him!
Good grief Amruta ! That’s Amazing!

But Why Soooo many awards?? 

Simple Twinny.. !!

Close your eyes.. 

Try to picture Goddess LAXMI…

Is THIS the image you imagine??

Well this was HIS version of the Goddess !

 Now think of Goddess SARASWATI…

 Or for that matter…SHAKUNTALA or the various scenes from the EPICS or PURANAS..

All these and many many more…..Were painted by Raja Ravi Varma !!!!
He gave faces to all our Gods!

His paintings are everywhere ….

Reaching the humblest of homes.!

HOW Amruta??!

Simple Twinny !

He started a printing press (in 1894!)


WHERE Amruta?
Believe it or not …in GHATKOPAR ,Mumbai!

Then later in MALAVLI near Lonavala ..!

His paintings of Hindu Gods /Goddesses, 

of  Mythological stories …

were churned out from this very press …in huge numbers …on calendars ,posters !

Available CHEAPLY in bazaars! 

No wonder his art is called 




Ok ok Amruta .. but ONLY pictures of gods and goddesses??!
No no Twinny !

Raja Ravi Varma himself was closely related to the matriarchal ROYAL family of TRAVANCORE. ….so many of his paintings feature 

 aristocratic women in sublime finery and rich drapery …

Strong , beautiful , palpable women !

Full of grace and charm!

Just look at the detailing ,colours and elegance! GORGEOUS PORTRAITS in OIL…Borrowing elements from European realism
Mixing with indian sensitivity ….


Here is the LADY with the LAMP……..

The lady posing for this masterpiece is still she is……

Absolutely EXQUISITE 
Absolutely REAL ..

This art form also called 


It was indeed a privilege to OWN a Raja Ravi Varma painting
But to do so one also had to be RICH!

To make his paintings more affordable 


Amruta what the heck are lithographs???
LITHOS means stone …

GRAPH means to write 

( In Greek of course)

Lithography Originated in Bavaria in 1796!

The painting to be copied is traced on a rough Stone…

Then using the property of immiscibility of oil and water.. an AUTHORISED COPY of the painting is made ..

Of course …In a series of steps…

The PRICE of the lithograph is way cheaper than the the original painting …Many painters like Picasso / Hussain 

Certified their lithographs!

This way more persons could OWN ….if NOT the ORIGINAL painting ,the closest to it!

At this same time…….In the west….HENRI de TOULOUSE LAUTREC

( 1864- 1901) , the extremely talented alcoholic dwarf artist 

popularised POSTER art …

With his flair for painting ,printing ,
lithography and caricature …

He depicted life in gay Paris .. the cafes / brothels/ moulain rouge/ the theatre/ the circus

Here are some of his paintings and posters …

It is said .. if there were no Henri LAUTREC..
There would be no ANDY WARHOL…

And surely you know who that is Twinny!!

Oooooh Amruta .. I just love this idea of  

In fact …

Am READY to SIT  for a portrait right away !

Summon the Artist !
Only a modern -day Raja Ravi Varma will do!

Will Promise  to gift you a PRINTED COPY  OR a  NUMBERED LITHOGRAPH , Amruta!
And yes …..

Will keep one for that bimbo Isabella too!
Come on …

Pass me that basket cover….!

Shall place it so ….

 Almost ready !
And now…..

‘LADY with LAMP ( er light bulb!)’!!!2017!
Oh Twinny ….you are crazy !

Keep waiting!!! What do I care??!

Byeeeee… !!!!!

Indulge with Isabella… Say Cheese!

Hiiiii !It’s me Isabella !!!😁!

And why that CHEESY grin Isabella???

Oh that’s because today’s recipe has in it ….FETA…. 

FETA ?????

‘FETA ‘  kyaa CHEEZ  hai Isabella???

Oh Twinny …Feta is a brined , white ,

curd-like GREEK  Cheese ….curdled from SHEEPS milk!

Most cheese produced around the world is by adding rennet or vinegar to COW’S milk….
Sometimes to GOATS milk ( like in Sudan)

Or to BUFFALO milk  ( as in Egypt).

The Bhutanese and Nepalese use  YAKS milk……..and yes …one can procure cheese even from a  MOOSE !

But the RAREST , MOST EXPENSIVE cheese in the world is from 


It is from DONKEYS !

It takes 25 litres of milk to produce 1 kg of PULE( donkey cheese)

And One donkey ( Jennie) can produce very little milk!

And donkey milk anyways has very little Casein ….

So less to coagulate!

No wonder it is SO EXPENSIVE …560 dollars per pound!

Very rich in antioxidants and vit c , calcium

Phosphorus ,omega3…..

NOVAk DJOKOVIC bought the worlds entire supply of this cheese!!!   In 2013!!! 

 No No Twinny not Djoking!!!

SHUSH   SHUSH. Isabella…..!  How much you love to gossip!

How about you get back to Todays  recipe?

Ok ok Twinny ……don’t get CHEESED!!
Am set and ready..

Let me list the ingredients ….

FETA cheese 



Lets go…First …​​​

Now let’s get the sugar and walnuts ready…​
Then simply put together!!
Wow !


This recipe is quite IMAGINATIVE  Isabella..

Are you sure it’s your creation ???!

Heavens no Twinny !

This is the innovative brainwave of my simply AMAZING friend…SANGEETA KAPOOR!

Here she is…

Come on Sangeeta ……..SAY CHEESE !!

This gal is something else!


As  SPICY  as the MIRCHI

And as WHOLESOME  as the  CHEESE…

Like the 400 or more cheese varieties in this world .. 

(in France there is one cheese for each day of the year) she is a woman of 400 or more facets!

My my …You have gone crazy Isabella !
No Twinny .. it is true..!

She dabbles ….in almost everything!

Interior design /art/ props /events /ad films/ costume design/writing /traveling /share markets /gardening/ Cooking !

The works!

She’s dependable and popular like 


Creative ,imbibing ,open…like Swiss EMMENTAL…

Soft ,crumbly ,emotional…..  like 

the French fromage BRIE….

Ready to Stretch out and help like Italian
MOZZARELLA on an oven fresh Pizza…!

And SuperFunny !
Driving away the blues… 

Well maybe NOT  the blue of blue GORGONZOLA!

She is simply pure gold !
Nothing less than WHITE   STILTON GOLD Cheese…

British and blingy! With sparkles of gold …!

Today is 9th September.. and it’s her birthday !

Wanted to surprise you in a different way!

Aware that you detest 

run of the mill,  mass produced factory stuff ….

like the mass produced processed cheeses of the UNITED STATES.. 

So What ….if they …the largest cheese producers in the world ! And their factories as old as 1861 !

So presenting for you dear Sangu a recipe fresh and quick.. using

Suggested by the very suave 


From the U.K.!     Here he is .. 

The guy in the specs!
Oops …they all wearing specs…..dr Satish and dr Divya too!

Ok ok the tallest guy with the cheeeeeiest grin …….Ahoy there Ashish !!

Merci Beucoup for sharing your recipe … 

Here it is …..

Take 1/4 kilo paneer ..

Cut in neat pieces …,Dust with cornflour and deep fry in hot oil…

Dry on kitchen paper and Keep aside!

Next sauté in a pan 1 tablespoon butter … 
Along with finely sliced shallots(8-10)

Ginger ,garlic

Chillies..plenty .. approx 2 tablespoons each

For 10- 12 mins till soft and shiny…

Then add 
Light Soya sauce 

And  Pepper  Soya sauce….

2 tablespoons  each…

Some sugar …only if you need it sweet and saucy…..then throw in the paneer pieces….

My gosh .. what an unholy mess!

Wait wait…Twinny !

You still have to Toss in finely chopped SPRING ONIONS …..and most importantly GROUND WHOLE PEPPER!
1 /2 tablespoon….or so!

Hey presto……..PEPPER SOYA PANEER !!!

Hot spicy main dish !

Can be SERVED with pan fried noodles or veg fried rice !


As for you…… SANGU!

And what about  DESSERT  Isabella??
Sangeeta not a fan of desserts Twinny ..


Something salty , Something fruity , Something crackly ….
Served With ‘yum’   Dessert wine , post dinner

.. MOSCATO the best!!


There you go…

As for me Twinny…am off to have a bath!
With ASSES  milk! 

Isabelllla .. Asses milk????Grrrrrrr!😡


Forgive my slang Twinny!
Let me correct myself……..

Am off to bathe with er Donkeys milk..

Ooh la la 

Just like Cleopatra !